Acknowledgement:
CBUG wishes to thank Tanja, who came all the way from Adelaide, South Australia to visit this area, for her contribution to our Web Page. Also Terence Cammell for his assistance and Grace Newhaven for his encouragement. These trip notes are very important and help visitors, not only from Australia, but from all over the world, plan their activites more efficiently.
So if you have been helped by these notes, please let us know. Comments. Also send us your trip notes for publication and you'll be helping the next cyclist who visits our wonderful Tropical North Queensland.
Cycling Far North Queensland - Mossman to Cooktown
by TANJA LENZ
General
This report deals with cycling between Mossman and Cooktown in Far North Queensland, where the rainforest meets the reef. Far North Queensland is a beautiful place. The rainforest is tame , the weather can be perfect (don't go when it isn't - like we did), the reef is unforgettable. The place is touristy, but - apart from some places - not really spoilt, Queensland is incredibly laid-back and if you have some relaxing and rewarding weeks free for winter cycle touring, it is the place to go.
Resources
Lonely Planet Guide for Queensland, very informative on accommodation, food and things to see. Maps reasonably accurate, but not detailed enough for serious cycling. As we didn't do too much serious cycling we just went where the road took us. There are suitable maps around, eg HEMA, but I can't recommend anything. Most locals are knowledgable about road conditions and distances. The information in here is based on a trip in August 1997.
Climate
Warm and dry in winter with some hot spells and occasionally wet spells. Wet weather gear (at least jacket) essential. Summers humid, wet and hot. This is rainforest country! There is a southerly wind which can be quite strong. I remember being blown backwards on my bike in Cooktown. Be aware that the Coral Sea turns into a brown soup if winds are stronger than 15 knots for several days and all reef trips are cancelled.
Bikes & Luggage
A touring bike is suitable up to Cape Trib and if you have wide tyres, reliable parts and take some care on the steep and corrugated bits you could make it to Cooktown on one. Otherwise take a mountain bike. The most important thing is that you have little luggage for north of Cape Trib, a reliable bike and that you are self-reliant in terms of tools and spares. Make sure your brakes are in top condition. There are no bike shops north of Mossman.
Tap water is not only drinkable, but delicious and during winter you should not need to carry more than 2L each on this particular route.
Roads and Traffic
Roads are sealed up to Cape Trib. Traffic was average. The sugar cane trucks are scary (sugar cane season is in winter), but their drivers usually considerate.
The Bloomfield Track itself between Cape Trib and Bloomfield is unsealed. The first part of the track is smooth, but has rather steep hills. First there is the Donovan Range, the there is the Cowie Range and then we got too exhausted to read the signs. Only the last 20 km from the Lion's Den Pub to Cooktown are somewhat rough. Traffic on the Bloomfield track is four wheel drives only, mainly tourists. The worst thing about the traffic is the long dust clouds.
Route
To Mossman
Cook Highway from Cairns to Mossman is fairly narrow with lots of traffic. We actually didn't cycle it, but it didn't look too pleasant. We arrived at Mossman via Mareeba and Mt. Molloy, after one of us had taken the train from Cairns to Kuranda (about $25 plus $7 for the bike, easy to get bike on train). The other of us had got lost in wild pig tracks between Atherton and Mareeba (Warning: For any State Forest riding you'll not only need a permit from the Forestry Department, but also an extremely good map). Cycling via Mt. Molloy was ok. We found the best way to get down the tableland is either to cycle behind a sugar cane truck (ca 30-40 km/h), as no car will overtake you or, if you are more adventurous, overtake the truck and you freewheel almost into Mossman. There is also a rumour about a unsealed track between Kuranda and Mossman, feel free to investigate.
Quicksilver runs catamarans between Port Douglas and Cairns (see Lonely Planet, apparently $20 one way, 1.5 hours).
Mossman
Pleasant country town. Don't miss out on Yam-Yams fruit and ice-cream. They also function as a Health Food Store and Grocery. There are two camp grounds, a bike shop and all other facilities. A few km out of town you'll find the Mossman Gorge, a beautiful place for some short walks and a dip in the Creek.
From here it is about 25 km to the Daintree Ferry, which continuously crosses the River. Bikes cost $1 each. There are River Cruises available, if you wish to see a croc.
After the Daintree you'll climb Alexandra Range. The traffic is regulated by the ferry and not too bad. At the top you'll find Cow Bay with Pub, accommodation, joy flights and a Gallery. The Crocodylus Hostel is 1 km to the east, a few hundred meters on a General Store. The hostel beds are $15-17. Don't miss out on the self-guided orange rope walk. There are more walks on the way to the rainforest interpretation centre, which you should have past south of Cow Bay.
In addition there are several private camp grounds on the way to Cape Trib north of Cow Bay.
Cape Tribulation
Cape Trib has a general store, one camp ground (quiet), one hostel (huge, with lots of parties) and a take away. There is a bat house, where you can pet a fruit bat and a permaculture farm with lots of exotic fruit. Reef trips are available and are good value. There is also horse riding if your bum can still stand to be in the saddle. There are some walking tracks: contact the National Parks Office, just north of the hostel.
Bloomfield Track
North of Cap Trib you'll find the famous Bloomfield Track which was cleared to connect Bloomfield and Cape Trib. It goes through a mosaic of dryland forest and some lowland rainforest and is quite beautiful. There are some views along the coast and several creeks to cross. At low tide the creeks were easy to cross cycling, carrying or wheeling bikes and luggage.
Bloomfield River on the other hand is crossed on a cement causeway. There is a camp ground about 10 km north of Bloomfield, just out of Ayton. Ayton has a well-stocked general store.
From Bloomfield on the landscape changes to coastal dryland and cattle paddocks. The general store in Helenville was closed. We camped in The Lion's Den backyard, which was cheap ($6 for the two of us). There is a friendly take-away (Wilma's Country Kitchen) 500 m up the road.
From Lion's Den it is only a few kilometres to the developmental road from Lakeland to Cooktown. There are a few things to see on the last 20 km, so don't let the wind blow you straight into the place. Black Hill is worth a stop and Keatings Lagoon has a picturesque walk half way around. You'll also pass Mt Cook National Park.
Cooktown
Cooktown is a small windblown country town. There are several camp grounds. We were impressed with the friendly staff and the good facilities at Cooktown Tropical Breeze Caravan Park (under $14). For food we recommend the bakery and there is also a small, but well stocked health food shop approximately opposite the Post Office. The Cook Museum was well worth two hours and there are some walks in the Botanical Garden Area. There are charter reef trips available, but often cancelled due to the wind and probably also more expensive than further south.
Once you have explored Cooktown, what next? We have met people who have cycled further north such as to Laura. One talked about meter deep sand on the road and having to drink water out of billabongs together with the cows. There are people who have cycled to Cape York, so info should be available from somewhere else. Back to Cairns you have the option of cycling, bus or plane. The bus is about ($55), but requires your bike to be boxed. You'd be lucky to find a bike box in Cooktown. The plane was $70 and they are much more relaxed (seat down, front wheel off). There are no ferries any more back to Port Douglas.
For more information
tlenz@student.aidelaide.edu.au until February 1998
Australian Cyclist magazine, #16(3), #18(3), #18(5)
Freewheeling Magazine, #25, #38, #40, #43
cbug@altnews.com.au
Have fun and Happy Cycling!
Tanja
Home